Saturday
Jul162016

Gilding the Lily: Foie Gras With Chocolate

 

 

Gilding the Lily: Foie Gras With Chocolate

By FLORENCE FABRICANTJULY 5, 2016

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The plaque of amuse-bouches at Petrossian suggests candy, not a pre-dinner snack. That trompe l’oeil effect is a result of what is offered: chocolate-covered foie gras, savory marshmallow cubes with caviar, and smoked-salmon pops.

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It sounds risky. But any doubt I had was quickly dispelled. The savory foie gras bite had the creamy texture of a chocolate truffle with a happy marriage of flavors, at once bitter yet mellow.

The chef, Richard Farnabe, said the combination came about through simple trial and error. “I try different combinations and new techniques while cooking every day,” he said, adding that although customers are often surprised by the marriage of chocolate and duck liver, many ask for a few extra pieces to take home.

And you could make them at home.

For a dozen, you’d need about 3 ounces of foie gras terrine or torchon, chilled. Use a knife dipped in cold water to make ¾-inch cubes. Put them on a sheet of foil in the freezer and have a sheet of parchment ready. Melt 2 ounces of bittersweet chocolate, about 70 percent, with a pinch of salt. Use small tongs to dip the foie gras cubes in the chocolate and place them on the parchment to set. You could dab one side of a toasted pistachio in the melted chocolate and place it on top of each cube. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

A version of this article appears in print on July 6, 2016, on page D3 of the New York edition with the headline: Trial and Error Yields a Surprise. Order Reprints| Today's Paper

Wednesday
Mar302016

Covered in Caviar: Petrossian NYC

 

March 28, 2016

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 In a city congested with french cuisine, the Petrossian offers a menu that cannot be found elsewhere in New York.

Chef Richard Farnabe has mastered the art of complimenting untraditional flavors to create a harmony of taste. I find myself craving caviar marshmallow as I write this; a sentence I never thought I would form. Everyone from the Kardashians to Martha Stewart is a fan of Petrossian Caviar. Needless to say, I jumped at the opportunity to review their new menu.

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I typically write about dating & style, and while I can’t compare this foie gras chocolate experience to one I’ve had before– I can tell you my date loved me more after indulging in it. The first course was a masterful king crab mousse that stood well on it’s own, but was even better spread on a croissant.

Processed with VSCOcam with s2 presetKing Crab Legs Celery Mousse Topped with Caviar. So delicious my mouth is watering just reminiscing.Processed with VSCOcam with s2 presetParmesan wrapped in spaghetti with Transmontanus caviar

Nothing was short of excellent. However, it was the parmesan wrapped in spaghetti topped with caviar that changed my boyfriend Ben’s life forever. The crisp White Oak sauvignon blanc paired made each bite taste like the first.

Processed with VSCOcam with s3 presetSalmon cream cheese lollypops, foie gras chocolate, marshmallow caviar  (my personal favorite of the night)Processed with VSCOcam with s2 presetLangoustine Tartar with Royal CaviarProcessed with VSCOcam with s2 presetFoie Gras Brûllé w/Pomegranate Guinness Drop 

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Processed with VSCOcam with s2 presetDeep Sea Turbot with Sunflower Roasted Butternut Squash

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Processed with VSCOcam with s2 preset“Surf and Turf” Duck breast and baby lobsters. Heaven.

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If you’re looking to experience something unique on a special occasion, or want to ensure a first date leads to a second, make a reservation.

Thank you to Mervete, Leo, Joe, Elton, Jefferson & Richard. We had a wonderful experience. 

Wednesday
Mar302016

catch-it-chef-farnabe-at-petrossian

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What makes a distinct dining experience for me? It is the cuisine, the atmosphere and conversations with someone special. Usually, though, we don’t get to meet the people who work behind the scenes to create these unforgettable meals. Several weeks ago, I sat with Chef Richard Farnabe at the famed Petrossian restaurant at 182 West 58th Street, New York, NY 10019. The French-born chef has a resume par excellence, punctuated with the names of restaurants that draw gourmands and stars to New York from around the world— Restaurant Daniel, Jean Georges, Lotus, and the Soho Grand Hotel and The Tribeca Grand Hotel, among others. Chef Farnabe is charming as he speaks to me with a radiant smile about his home away from home—Petrossian.

What makes a chef?

Passion. You have to be passionate for what you do or you will never be a chef. You have to love what you do.

What do you like about being a chef?

For me, teaching people in my kitchen how to be a chef, showing my passion, and demonstrating the techniques that will help them grow.

What is a perfect day in the kitchen?

Every day is a perfect day. I love waking up and coming to work. I love my job. I love what I do.

How long have you been a chef?

Thirty-two years.

How did it come about?

I started when I was twelve–years-old. I am Parisian-born. As a young kid, I was cooking for my brother after school because my mother was working late. I got to love cooking, and found a passion for cooking.

Where did you acquire your experience in French cuisine?

I went to school in France. I worked for a wonderful chef for ten years—Jacques Maximin.

What makes Petrosssian a classic French restaurant?

Petrossian has been an institution since 1920. They have the best caviar in the world. Of course, we encapsulate the French technique in a classic restaurant like Petrossian with an American flair.

Petrossian is an elegant restaurant. Is there one word you can use to describe what it is like being in your kitchen?

My kitchen is like the restaurant: You can eat on the floor. My kitchen is spotless. Everything has to be spotless. I am OCD about it.

Is there a secret to making pastries?

Pastries are like chemistry. You have the ingredients: flower, eggs and sugar, and everything is precise. When we create a new pastry, we just try and try again to get it to perfection.

Do you make your croissants daily?

Yes, every day. We have a gentleman who has been making our croissants for fifteen years. He is here at five o’clock in the morning.

What advice would you give to a young person who wanted to become a chef?

Be patient in learning. In France, we go to school for three years. Here, some people attend a culinary school for three months or six months. They watch cooking shows on television and think they can be a chef. Cooking is about patience, because you don’t learn everything overnight. It is precise. So, be patient and understand that every dish is different. There are hundreds of sauces and different ways to cook fish and vegetables. I say, learn the technique and relax. Being a chef is not only cooking. It is managing the kitchen, the restaurant and, at the end of the day, you have to make money.

Do you like caviar?

What is there not to like? We have tourists from Russia, Japan, Europe, and of course, New Yorkers who come for our caviar.

Do you cook at home for your family or go out?

I cook. I love going to the market and making a nice meal at home.

Thank you Mr. Farnabe

Catch it if you can at www.petrossian.com

 

Monday
Oct262015

PETROSSIAN RESTAURANT CHEF FARNABE NEW EXECUTIVE CHEF 

 

 

Wednesday
May282014

Professional